No Buckle Hobble with Leather Center #H3L
Description: This No Buckle Hobble with Leather Center is made of 1 3/4 inch doubled and stitched latigo leather with a 3 inch long latigo leather link in the center. The hobble also has an easy “on/off” latch that makes this a snap to take on and off the fetlocks. This should only be used on horses that are completely hobble broke.
Visit “Hobble Along” to read my Tack Talk article on the safe and proper use of hobbles.
Only for use on horses that are hobble broke already.
1″ Hobble #H1
Description: This figure 8 hobble is made of 1 inch doubled and stitched burgundy latigo leather. The buckle is a stainless steel square top roller buckle and the rings are made of stainless steel rod. It is small enough to hang on your saddle rear D and stout enough to last for years.
How it works: This hobble is a must have for starting your colt. It works especially well for sacking out colts and patience training when used in combination with the #SL1 Bronc Sideline (shown on horse in picture to left). Hobbles are a very good tool for teaching patience, trust in the handler, and responding to pressure so the release is received. Many a horse has been saved from severe injury when caught in wire because it was hobble trained. A horseman teaches his horse to accept hobbles and sidelines so she/he won’t ever have to tie or ground tie a horse and take a chance on him ruining his tender mouth with a jerk from a stepped on or tied rein. Investing in hobbles and their training can have a big pay-back. Hobbles and sidelines have a quieting effect on the horse’s mind.
To put a set of hobbles on:
1. Starting with the right front leg, wrap the end of the hobble strap clockwise around the leg and lace it through the first metal ring.
2. Lace the strap through the second ring.
3. Run the strap behind the left front leg.
4. Buckle the strap.
For more information on hobbles read my Tack Talk Article Hobble Along.
The first time you use the hobbles on your colt or horse, or while training the horse to accept hobbles, use a wide open sandy area. Do not put hobbles on in a confined space until they accept them easily and well. If you are not familiar with the use of hobbles seek help from a professional who is experienced with their use.
Harness Leather Quirt #F1
Description: The Harness Leather Quirt is beautifully handmade from 1 piece of 5/8 inch heavy harness leather which is folded, stitched, hand edged and oiled. It has a 3/8 inch leather lash for your wrist. This quirt is 24 inches long.
Leather Tiedown Strap #ZG
Description: My Leather Tiedown Straps come in 2 widths: 3/4 inch and 1 inch (see dropdown). Both straps are fully adjustable and made of single ply harness leather which has been edged, hand rubbed, treated with Neatsfoot Oil and hand rubbed again. Snaps and roller buckle are stainless steel. These are top of the line tiedown straps that you will be able to use for many years without problems.
Rawhide Ball Quirt #F3
Description: This handbraided Rawide Ball Quirt is braided on a 3/4 inch rawhide core. The 1 1/4 inch ball at the end of the quirt is attached directly to the core and braided over. The quirt is 25 inches long and has a 3/8 inch latigo wrist loop. This is a stout, stiff quirt.
Adjustable Rope Headsetter #CST4
Description: This headsetter is made of 3/16 inch nylon rope with race track harness leather adjustment straps allowing you to get exactly the right fit for your horse. Racetrack harness leather is the toughest and tightest fibered leather I can buy. It is not latigo leather and will not stretch but is pliable and has great feel. The 5705 buckles on each side are made of stainless steel. The headsetter price does not include a tie down strap but you may purchase a Leather Tiedown Strap #ZG, either 3/4 or 1 inch in width, or a Nylon Tie Down Strap #ZH (shown) with the headsetter. See dropdown to order.
How it works: Pressure is applied from the tiedown strap to the nose as the head goes up causing the cheek pieces to slide through the nose piece rings until they hit the top stops on the cheek pieces. As the cheek pieces are sliding pressure is increased at the poll. This headsetter applies more pressure to the poll than to the nose. The pressure points together cause the horse to lower his head to a natural position to find release. This is a very popular training tool with ropers and can help those horses that have a tendency to raise their heads while roping. Can be a great training aid for other disciplines also. Horses can learn to ride with their heads lower if ridden in the headsetter tiedown.