String Running Martingale #CM4
Description: The String Running Martingale is made of tan 1/4 inch nylon cord. The rings and swivel snap are stainless steel. The safety hobble strap goes thru the gullet of the saddle and over the horn to prevent the neckstrap from sliding to the ears. This martingale is adjustable both around the neck and to the cinch.
How it works: The running martingale is a very useful tool to aid a horse in learning proper head position as he learns collection. If adjusted correctly a martingale does not force the head to stay in any given position but allows the horse a guide for head placement through automatic release of pressure on the reins when correct head placement is achieved. This can make it easier for a horse to reach a more collected frame over time by allowing assistance with head position as rider teaches the horse to drive from behind.
A good rule of thumb for adjustment is to allow horse to stand comfortably, attach snap to cinch D ring and extend ring straps until they reach the throatlatch.
Kick Chain #KC1
Description: These Kick Chains have a doubled and stitched 1 3/4 inch burgundy latigo leather cuff with an ”easy-on/easy-off” fastener. The rectangle, dee and 12 inch chain are stainless steel. This kick chain is made to fit the front or back fetlock of any size horse.
How it works: The kick chain is an ideal aid for those horses that want to kick or paw while in the stall or trailer or paw while tied up. This can be fastened to either a front or hind fetlock. Most horses will stop pawing or kicking after a short time with the kick chain but a small percentage will need to wear it indefinitely. Generally, one kick chain can be used for a session and then transferred to the other front or back fetlock for a session and the problem will be solved. Occasionally a horse that has been pawing or kicking for a long time will need to wear a kick chain on both legs at the same time.
This is sold as a single kick chain, if you need more than 1 please order additional kick chains in the ”quantity” box below.
This is not a tool to be used for teaching horses to not kick at people.
Shown on a horse that is 15.1 hands and 1100 pounds.
Easy Stop #ES1
Description: The Easy Stop #ES1 is a very good piece of tack to use when you want to teach your horse to stop correctly when cued, without having to put pressure on the mouth. Often a horse will show a lot of improvement in it’s stop with just a few rides in the Easy Stop.
The noseband is made of 3/8 inch nylon rope that is specially designed to lay right from the first ride. The headstall is made of 3/4 inch dense, tight-fibered harness leather. The leather has been edged, hand-rubbed, oiled with Neatsfoot Oil and hand-rubbed again. The buckles are stainless steel and the leather beneath the buckles is hand stitched together to prevent the buckles from sliding down as you’re adjusting the headstall. This Easy Stop includes a hand-tied tan 1/4 inch nylon fiador tied to the top of the spoon so it won’t interfere with the reins.
Choice of Reins: The Easy Stop is available without reins or with these 4 best selling rein choices: #ASR6 DM Harness Leather Split Reins and #BLL6 Latigo on Latigo 3/4″ Snaffle Bit Reins are both shorter reins, 6 1/2 to 7 feet, and will work well on the smaller horse under 14.5 hands. The #ASR3 XX Harness Leather Split Reins, at 7 to 7 1/2 feet, is a good choice for the average horse, generally 14.5 to 16 hands. For a horse bigger than 16 hands I recommend my longest rein, the #ASR1 XXXX Harness Leather Split Reins. Choose your selection in the dropdown. Almost any of the reins I make will work well. If you don’t see what you need here please see the rein category. These reins can be purchased separately.
How it works: The Easy Stop noseband will apply pressure on the nose just like a hackamore or bosal. Additionally, the stainless steel Easy Stop spoon will come forward as the reins are pulled and make contact with the horse’s chin, in the space between the 2 jawbones (the intermandibular space). I carefully designed the angle of the Easy Stop spoon to function correctly and lay close enough to the horse’s intermandibular space that it doesn’t apply pressure until the reins are pulled. The edges of the spoon are smooth and have a gentle bevel so there’s nothing sharp touching your horse. This Easy Stop is designed so the spoon doesn’t flip over when there’s not any pressure on the reins.
This is used by top professional cutting, cow horse, reining and barrel horse trainers, among others, and will last through years of use. This is a real good tool to have in your tack room for those times when a horse is not responding as soon as he is being asked to stop. Your horse should be broke to give at the poll, and should be flexible both laterally and longitudinally before being ridden with an easy stop.
If you are unfamiliar with the use of an Easy Stop, seek professional help before using it on your horse.
Nylon Rope Cavesson w/Rawhide Braided Nose #CA1
Description: The noseband on this 3/16″ Nylon Rope Cavesson w/Rawhide Braided Nose #CA1 is made of round 3/16 inch rope. The nose button and heel knot are covered in hand braided rawhide. The headstall is made of 1/2 inch burgundy latigo leather with a leather loop keeper. The buckle is beveled stainless steel. The headstall leather just below the buckle is handsewn together to prevent the buckle from slipping when the headstall is adjusted. There are hand braided rawhide ring knots on the noseband to hold the headstall in place.
This cavesson comes in small (19 in.), medium (21 in.), large (23 in.) and extra large (25 in.) (see dropdown). In general a small will fit a horse under 14.2 hands and 900 lbs., a medium will fit a horse between 14.2 and 15 hands, a large will fit most horses between 15.1 and 16 hands and the extra large is for those over 16 hands.
Size Measurement: An easy way to be certain to get the correct cavesson size is to wrap a leadrope around the nose where the cavesson will lay, mark the leadrope with a magic marker, straighten it and then measure the leadrope. When measuring, be sure to wrap the leadrope loosely enough that the horse will have enough room between his nose and the cavesson to be comfortable and to be able to hold the bit. A good rule of thumb is 2 fingers width between the nose and cavesson (which is the diameter of most leadropes) if the horse is trained to a cavesson.
This is my favorite for a horse that has advanced beyond the leather and string cavessons. It gives the strongest signal of any of my cavessons. It looks good on a horse. Dennis
For more information on cavesson fit and use visit: There’s More to a Cavesson than Meets the Eye: How and Why to Use Cavessons
No Buckle Hobble with Chain Center #H3C
Description: This No Buckle Hobble has an easy “on/off latch” that makes this a snap to take on and off the fetlocks. It is made of 1 3/4 inch doubled and stitched latigo leather with a chain link in the center to make it more flexible than the #H3L No Buckle Hobble. This should only be used on horses that are completely hobble broke.
Visit “Hobble Along” to read my Tack Talk article on proper and safe use hobbles.
For use only on horses that are hobble broke.
1″ Hobble #H1
Description: This figure 8 hobble is made of 1 inch doubled and stitched burgundy latigo leather. The buckle is a stainless steel square top roller buckle and the rings are made of stainless steel rod. It is small enough to hang on your saddle rear D and stout enough to last for years.
How it works: This hobble is a must have for starting your colt. It works especially well for sacking out colts and patience training when used in combination with the #SL1 Bronc Sideline (shown on horse in picture to left). Hobbles are a very good tool for teaching patience, trust in the handler, and responding to pressure so the release is received. Many a horse has been saved from severe injury when caught in wire because it was hobble trained. A horseman teaches his horse to accept hobbles and sidelines so she/he won’t ever have to tie or ground tie a horse and take a chance on him ruining his tender mouth with a jerk from a stepped on or tied rein. Investing in hobbles and their training can have a big pay-back. Hobbles and sidelines have a quieting effect on the horse’s mind.
To put a set of hobbles on:
1. Starting with the right front leg, wrap the end of the hobble strap clockwise around the leg and lace it through the first metal ring.
2. Lace the strap through the second ring.
3. Run the strap behind the left front leg.
4. Buckle the strap.
For more information on hobbles read my Tack Talk Article Hobble Along.
The first time you use the hobbles on your colt or horse, or while training the horse to accept hobbles, use a wide open sandy area. Do not put hobbles on in a confined space until they accept them easily and well. If you are not familiar with the use of hobbles seek help from a professional who is experienced with their use.