1/2″ Nylon Lead Rope with Braided Loop #ALR2
Description: This Lead Rope is made of white medium lay 1/2 inch nylon rope with an eye loop hand braided/spliced in. The tail is braided back to prevent unraveling. The length is 10 feet before braiding, making it approximately 8 ft. 6 in. when it’s finished. A stout leadrope with plenty of flexibility for tying that will hold up for many years. You can read how to properly tie a lead rope by clicking here: Take Me To Your Lead Rope.
Braided Rawhide Barrel Reins #RR60
Description: This is a great feeling hand braided rawhide barrel racing rein. It has 4 pineapple knots for grip and 12 button and barrel knots for eye appeal. There is plenty of body and feel here to really communicate with and control your horse. The rawhide is braided on a 56 inch piece of 5/16th inch nylon cord, all done by hand by a master braider. The 5/8 inch latigo adjustment straps allow 6 inches of adjustment for a total rein length of between 74 and 8o inches. The adjustment strap ends are held in place with rawhide braided keepers. The snaps and buckles are stainless steel. This is a functional, eye-catching barrel rein.
How they work: The rawhide braided knots are very useful not only for quick grip as you turn a barrel but also to help lift and push against the neck as you raise a shoulder around a barrel. Vaqueros have been using these knots for centuries. They learned the slight pressure from the knot against the horse’s neck gets more response than just leather or rawhide alone.
1″ Hobble #H1
Description: This figure 8 hobble is made of 1 inch doubled and stitched burgundy latigo leather. The buckle is a stainless steel square top roller buckle and the rings are made of stainless steel rod. It is small enough to hang on your saddle rear D and stout enough to last for years.
How it works: This hobble is a must have for starting your colt. It works especially well for sacking out colts and patience training when used in combination with the #SL1 Bronc Sideline (shown on horse in picture to left). Hobbles are a very good tool for teaching patience, trust in the handler, and responding to pressure so the release is received. Many a horse has been saved from severe injury when caught in wire because it was hobble trained. A horseman teaches his horse to accept hobbles and sidelines so she/he won’t ever have to tie or ground tie a horse and take a chance on him ruining his tender mouth with a jerk from a stepped on or tied rein. Investing in hobbles and their training can have a big pay-back. Hobbles and sidelines have a quieting effect on the horse’s mind.
To put a set of hobbles on:
1. Starting with the right front leg, wrap the end of the hobble strap clockwise around the leg and lace it through the first metal ring.
2. Lace the strap through the second ring.
3. Run the strap behind the left front leg.
4. Buckle the strap.
For more information on hobbles read my Tack Talk Article Hobble Along.
The first time you use the hobbles on your colt or horse, or while training the horse to accept hobbles, use a wide open sandy area. Do not put hobbles on in a confined space until they accept them easily and well. If you are not familiar with the use of hobbles seek help from a professional who is experienced with their use.
Adjustable Latigo Leather Cavesson #CA5
Description: This Adjustable Latigo Leather Cavesson is made with a doubled and stitched 5/8 inch burgundy latigo leather noseband. The chin strap and headstall are single ply burgundy latigo leather. The buckles and rings are stainless steel.
This cavesson is available in small and large sizes. Both sizes are adjustable. The small size will fit the smaller or young horse (generally 14.2 hands and under). The large size fits the mature/bigger horse. The large size has a 2 inch bigger nose and 3 inch longer crown.
German Martingale Complete #CM1A
How it works: The key to any German Martingale is the release of pressure on the bit. The Y-cord on my German Martingale is made with a very hard finished, tightly braided cord (please see diagram at left). This cord runs from the cinch adjustment strap through the ring of the bit and connects to the reins at the Y cord rein knot. This cord releases immediately, with no drag, when you release finger-tip pressure on the reins. The horse learns to respond to pressure on the bit from this quick and rewarding release.
The neck strap on my German Martingale is long to give the correct angle from the cinch to the bit. This angle is very important in the training process because it encourages a horse to lower its neck from the withers before flexing at the poll. You will not find this angle on other German Martingales. The safety hobble on the neck strap goes through the gullet and over the horn to prevent the neck strap from sliding forward and getting caught behind the ears. Without the safety hobble pressure from the martingale sliding forward may cause a horse to rear up and possibly fall over backwards.
There is only one simple adjustment on my German Martingale; the adjustment knot that leads to the cinch snap. This can be adjusted so this Martingale fits any size horse correctly. This is a great tool to use on any age horse. It helps relax and collect a horse and helps eliminate dropped shoulders in preparation for advanced maneuvers.
A German Martingale needs to be used correctly and with caution. Always check a horse from the ground so they know the German Martingale is there before you get on. Do not let the horse drop its head to the ground because he can step through the martingale rein and cause an accident. When you dismount, immediately unsnap the martingale from the cinch.
Description: The complete German Martingale includes the #HS24 3/4″ Browband Headstall, your choice of the #17 Heavy Ring Snaffle with the #9 3/8th inch 2 piece mouthpiece, the #17 Heavy Ring Snaffle with the #42 3/16th inch twisted wire mouthpiece or the #18 Egg Butt Snaffle and your choice of 4 harness leather reins. The choice of reins includes: the #ASR6 DM Harness Leather Split Reins which are 6 1/2 to 7 feet and work well on the smaller horse, the #ASR3 XX Harness Leather Split Reins which are 7 to 7 1/2 feet and are a good length for the average horse 14.5 to 16 hands, the #ASR2 XXX Harness Leather Split Reins are 7 1/2 to 8 feet and fit horses 16 hands and over, and, the Roping Rein with Rein Ends (water loops) if you prefer a single rein.
If you prefer a different snaffle you can order the martingale with any of the snaffles I make by calling 817-312-5305. Also shown on the horse is the #CA1 3/16th” Rope Cavesson with Rawhide Braided Nose. This cavesson is sold separately and not included in the price of the German Martingale.
Assistance from a professional is necessary to learn safe use of a German Martingale. If you’re not familiar with the proper use of a German Martingale, get the help of a professional trainer who is experienced with its use.
Sliding Running Martingale #CM3
Description: The sliding running martingale has a neck strap made of single ply 3/4 inch heavy harness leather. There is an adjustable tie down strap with cinch snap running from the center ring on the neck strap. A second snap with a ring-end is attached to the center ring of the neck strap and through the ring slides a heavy 1/4 inch nylon cord that’s 18 inches long with rein rings at each end. The sliding action allows the rider to pull the horse’s head completely around while maintaining correct placement. Buckles, rings and snaps are all stainless steel. An 1/2 inch latigo safety hobble strap goes through the gullet of the saddle and over the horn to prevent the neckstrap from sliding to the ears.
How it works: The running martingale is a very useful tool to aid a horse in learning proper head position as he learns collection. If adjusted correctly a martingale does not force the head to stay in any given position but allows the horse a guide for head placement through automatic release of pressure on the reins when correct head placement is achieved. This can make it easier for a horse to reach a more collected frame over time by allowing assistance with head position as the rider teaches the horse to drive from behind.