1/2″ Nylon Lead Rope with Snap #ALR1
Description: This Lead Rope is made of white medium lay 1/2 inch nylon rope and the stainless steel bull snap is hand braided/spliced in. The tail is braided back to prevent unraveling. The length is 10 feet before braiding, making it approximately 9 ft. 4 in. when it’s finished. The 1/2 inch nylon makes a good, stout leadrope with plenty of flexibility to tie easily. You can read how to properly tie a lead rope by clicking here: Take Me To Your Lead Rope.
String Cavesson w/ Rawhide Knots #CA3
Description: The String Cavesson with Rawhide Knots has a noseband made of tan 1/8 inch solid braid nylon cord. The adjustment knots at the bottom of the noseband are covered with handbraided rawhide pineapple knots. These knots allow the noseband to be quickly and easily adjusted to 19, 21 and 23 inches. This is nice if you have a number of horses to ride. The headstall is made of 1/2 inch burgundy latigo leather that has been edged and hand-rubbed. The buckle is beveled stainless steel with a leather loop keeper. The headstall leather under the buckle is hand sewn together to prevent the buckle from slipping when the headstall is adjusted. This cavesson lays so flat under your bridle you won’t know it is there!
Size Measurement: An easy way to be certain this cavesson will fit is to wrap a leadrope around the nose where the cavesson will lay, mark the leadrope with a magic marker, straighten it and then measure the leadrope. When measuring, be sure to wrap the leadrope loosely enough that the horse will have enough room between his nose and the cavesson to be comfortable and to be able to hold the bit. A good rule of thumb is 2 fingers width between the nose and cavesson (which is the diameter of most leadropes) if the horse is trained to a cavesson. This will fit any nose between approximately 19 and 23 inches.
This cavesson is a good all-around cavesson and can be used on colts if adjusted loosely when starting them in it.
For more information on cavesson fit and use visit: There’s More to a Cavesson than Meets the Eye: How and Why to Use Cavessons
German Martingale Complete #CM1A
How it works: The key to any German Martingale is the release of pressure on the bit. The Y-cord on my German Martingale is made with a very hard finished, tightly braided cord (please see diagram at left). This cord runs from the cinch adjustment strap through the ring of the bit and connects to the reins at the Y cord rein knot. This cord releases immediately, with no drag, when you release finger-tip pressure on the reins. The horse learns to respond to pressure on the bit from this quick and rewarding release.
The neck strap on my German Martingale is long to give the correct angle from the cinch to the bit. This angle is very important in the training process because it encourages a horse to lower its neck from the withers before flexing at the poll. You will not find this angle on other German Martingales. The safety hobble on the neck strap goes through the gullet and over the horn to prevent the neck strap from sliding forward and getting caught behind the ears. Without the safety hobble pressure from the martingale sliding forward may cause a horse to rear up and possibly fall over backwards.
There is only one simple adjustment on my German Martingale; the adjustment knot that leads to the cinch snap. This can be adjusted so this Martingale fits any size horse correctly. This is a great tool to use on any age horse. It helps relax and collect a horse and helps eliminate dropped shoulders in preparation for advanced maneuvers.
A German Martingale needs to be used correctly and with caution. Always check a horse from the ground so they know the German Martingale is there before you get on. Do not let the horse drop its head to the ground because he can step through the martingale rein and cause an accident. When you dismount, immediately unsnap the martingale from the cinch.
Description: The complete German Martingale includes the #HS24 3/4″ Browband Headstall, your choice of the #17 Heavy Ring Snaffle with the #9 3/8th inch 2 piece mouthpiece, the #17 Heavy Ring Snaffle with the #42 3/16th inch twisted wire mouthpiece or the #18 Egg Butt Snaffle and your choice of 4 harness leather reins. The choice of reins includes: the #ASR6 DM Harness Leather Split Reins which are 6 1/2 to 7 feet and work well on the smaller horse, the #ASR3 XX Harness Leather Split Reins which are 7 to 7 1/2 feet and are a good length for the average horse 14.5 to 16 hands, the #ASR2 XXX Harness Leather Split Reins are 7 1/2 to 8 feet and fit horses 16 hands and over, and, the Roping Rein with Rein Ends (water loops) if you prefer a single rein.
If you prefer a different snaffle you can order the martingale with any of the snaffles I make by calling 817-312-5305. Also shown on the horse is the #CA1 3/16th” Rope Cavesson with Rawhide Braided Nose. This cavesson is sold separately and not included in the price of the German Martingale.
Assistance from a professional is necessary to learn safe use of a German Martingale. If you’re not familiar with the proper use of a German Martingale, get the help of a professional trainer who is experienced with its use.
1 3/4″ Hobble #H2
Description: This figure 8 hobble with stainless steel squares is made of 1 3/4 inch doubled and stitched burgundy latigo leather. Squares are premium handmade stainless steel with smooth edges. This stout hobble is an extra wide 1 3/4″ to help protect the horse’s legs.
How it works: Hobbles are a very good tool for teaching patience, trust in the handler, and responding to pressure so the release is received. Many a horse has been saved from severe injury when caught in wire because it was hobble trained. A horseman teaches his horse to accept hobbles and sidelines so she/he won’t ever have to tie or ground tie a horse and take a chance on him ruining his tender mouth with a jerk from a stepped on or tied rein. Investing in hobbles and their training can have a big pay-back.
Visit “Hobble Along” to read my Tack Talk article on proper and safe use of hobbles.
The first time you use the hobbles on your colt or horse, or while training the horse to accept hobbles, use a wide open sandy area. Do not put hobbles on in a confined space until they accept them easily and well. If you are not familiar with the use of hobbles seek help from a professional who is experienced with their use.
No Buckle Hobble with Chain Center #H3C
Description: This No Buckle Hobble has an easy “on/off latch” that makes this a snap to take on and off the fetlocks. It is made of 1 3/4 inch doubled and stitched latigo leather with a chain link in the center to make it more flexible than the #H3L No Buckle Hobble. This should only be used on horses that are completely hobble broke.
Visit “Hobble Along” to read my Tack Talk article on proper and safe use hobbles.
For use only on horses that are hobble broke.
Adjustable Running Martingale #CM2
Description: This fully adjustable running martingale is made of single ply 3/4 inch harness leather with a neck and safety hobble strap. Neck strap, cincha strap, and ends on ring straps are all adjustable to fit horses of all sizes. The safety hobble strap runs through the gullet of the saddle and over the horn to prevent the neckstrap from sliding to the ears. The buckles, rings and snaps are stainless steel. Leather beneath the buckles and rings has been hand sewn together to prevent slipping or turning. A favorite with professional horsemen everywhere.
How it works: The martingale is a very useful tool to aid a horse in learning proper head position as he learns collection. If adjusted correctly a martingale does not force the head to stay in any given position but allows the horse a guide for head placement through automatic release of pressure on the reins when correct head placement is achieved. This can make it easier for a horse to reach a more collected frame over time by allowing assistance with head position as the rider teaches the horse to drive from behind.
A good rule of thumb for adjustment is to allow horse to stand comfortably, attach snap to cinch D ring and extend ring straps until they reach 1 to 2 inches from the bottom of the jaw.